There is one kind of invitation that I never say no to… Things get moved around and my busy diary gets miraculously “freed up” as soon as someone says “Let’s go for some sea food!”
Last week my colleague Vicki McLeod invited me to Barlovento in Puerto Andratx. I have never been and I was really looking forward to it, as much for the food as for free lessons in food photography that I inevitably get every time I do anything with Vicki. I am still pretty hopeless, but she keeps trying… I was intrigued by the restaurant's name, and was surprised to find out that it hasn’t got anything to do with bars; rather it means “windward” i.e. the side or direction from which the wind is blowing. The restaurant set up is super casual and relaxed. Any place with the views like those that Barlovento has does not need to try hard. But they did impress me with both the style and the food.
We started with some very good Beef Carpaccio, made with wafer thin beef, cherry tomatoes, plenty of parmesan shavings and a handful of rucola. This was followed by deliciously fresh Red prawns of Puerto Andratx. I really enjoyed these simply presented, big, juicy prawns. As Vicki and I were joined by Pep, the owner of Barlovento born right here in the port, I asked what the difference between Andratx and Soller prawns was. He revealed that these were in fact one and the same! How is that possible? Well, according to Pep, there is only one area in the Balearic Sea where you can get these very special red prawns, and that place is equidistant to Soller and Andratx. So, it’s down to clever marketing that we hear about ones rather that the others a lot more often.
For the main dish Vicki and I shared Arroz a banda. Arroz a banda is a dish of rice cooked in fish stock, typical of the coastal area of Alicante, Spain, and distinct from the paella of Valencia. It is popular up to Garraf, Barcelona and down to Murcia, as well as in select restaurants in Mallorca. I loved the fact that Arroz a banda was typically eaten with a large spoon, directly out of the pan. This creates even a greater sense of a shared experience at any table. Arroz a la banda at Barlovento was probably one of the most delicious arroces I have ever eaten in Mallorca, generously sprinkled with variety of seafood, succulent in the middle and crispy on the edges of the pan.
For dessert I picked Cardenal de Lloseta. Ever since I tried it at one of Santi Taura’s restaurants, Cardinal has been one of my favourite authentic desserts in Mallorca. The one at Barlovento did not disappoint either. It was sweet, creamy and crispy on top. Just lovely!
As we enjoyed this wonderful meal by the sea, Vicky and I talked to Pep about his experience of living here in the port as a child, about what has changed and what has remained the same. I wish we had more time for his stories. I wish I knew Mallorca in the time before mass tourism and rows of “samey” shops and restaurants. It’s not that life in Mallorca is bad now; it’s just that you have to know where to look for the most authentic experiences…
THE VERDICT
I love places like Barlovento: casual, relaxed, located right on the seafront, serving fresh seafood bought directly from local fishermen. The service at Barlovento is lovely too and, if the owner is around, you get to hear some fascinating local stories as well. I will definitely be back!
THE PLACE
Barlovento
Camí Vell des Far 1, Puerto Andratx
Tel: 971 25 22 24
Instagram: @yara_portals
OPENING HOURS
Tuesday to Sunday from 12 midday to 10pm
PRICES
Fresh red prawns of Port Andratx 35 euros (racion) / 18 euros (tapa)
Arroz a banda 24 euros per person
Cardenal de Lloseta 8 euros
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