Aubergines - The culinary Chameleon!

Aubergines: More than just a pretty skin

What fascinates me most about aubergines is their global appeal | Photo: Marc Fosh

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Aubergines, with their glossy purple skin and meaty texture, are one of the most versatile ingredients in the kitchen—yet so often misunderstood. Some shy away from them, unsure of how to tame their bitterness or bring out their true flavour. But in the hands of a chef, the aubergine becomes a canvas—absorbing spices, embracing smoke, and delivering deep, earthy satisfaction.

What fascinates me most about aubergines is their global appeal. From the silky baba ghanoush of the Middle East to the rich, slow-cooked caponatas of Sicily, and the fiery baingan bharta of India—every culture has found a way to make the aubergine shine. It’s a culinary chameleon, just as happy being grilled over open flames as it is being layered into a decadent moussaka.

The secret to a great aubergine dish is respecting its structure. Its sponge-like flesh can soak up oil too quickly if not prepared properly. I often recommend salting slices of aubergine and letting them rest for 20–30 minutes. This not only removes excess water and bitterness but also allows for better texture when cooked.

Grilling or roasting aubergines whole until their skins are charred and their flesh collapses gives you a soft, smoky interior perfect for dips and spreads. For stir-fries or curries, cubing and sautéing with bold spices helps the aubergine absorb flavour while holding its shape.

Aubergines love bold companions—think garlic, olive oil, tomatoes, cumin, tahini, and fresh herbs like basil or mint. They also marry beautifully with cheese, from a creamy goat’s cheese to the salty pull of halloumi or feta.

One of my favourite ways to serve aubergine is deceptively simple: thinly sliced, grilled over charcoal, brushed with a miso-honey glaze, and topped with sesame seeds and a scattering of spring onions. It’s sweet, smoky, and umami-rich—a perfect starter or side.

For too long, aubergines have been relegated to side dish status. But they’re capable of so much more. With the right treatment, they can be the star of the show—rich, complex, and deeply satisfying. So next time you're in the market, don’t pass them by. Pick up a few firm, glossy aubergines and give them the care they deserve. They might just become your new favourite ingredient.

This recipe can be a starter or a side dish

Miso-Grilled Aubergines

Ingredients: Serves 2

  • 1 large aubergine
  • 2 tbsp white miso paste
  • 1 tbsp honey or maple syrup
  • 1 tbsp soy sauce
  • 1 tsp sesame oil
  • 1 tsp rice vinegar
  • 1 tbsp toasted sesame seeds
  • 1 spring onion, finely sliced

Method

  1. Slice the aubergine lengthways into 1cm thick pieces. Lightly salt and set aside for 20 minutes. Pat dry.
  2. Preheat a grill or griddle pan.
  3. In a bowl, mix miso, honey, soy sauce, sesame oil, and vinegar.
  4. Brush aubergine slices with oil and grill for 3–4 minutes per side until tender and slightly charred. Brush with miso glaze and cook for 1 more minute each side.
  5. Serve sprinkled with sesame seeds and spring onion.
Spiced aubergines with creamy walnut dressing.

Spiced Aubergines with Crumbled Feta and creamy walnut dressing

Ingredients serves 4

  • 3 large aubergines, sliced lengthways into ½ cm-thick
  • 4tbsp olive oil
  • 1tsp ground cumin
  • 2tsp ras al hanout spice mix
  • 1 lemon, juiced
  • 1 garlic clove, crushed
  • 200g feta cheese, crumbled
  • A small bunch of fresh mint
  • Salt and freshly ground pepper

Creamy walnut dressing

  • Juice 1 lime
  • 100g crème fraîche
  • 2tbsp Natural Greek yoghurt
  • 100g walnuts, chopped
  • 2tbsp olive oil
  • Salt and freshly ground pepper

Method

  1. Combine 80g of walnuts with the crème fraîche, natural yoghurt, lime juice and olive oil in a food processor and blend to a puree. Season to taste.
  2. Heat a heavy-bottomed griddle pan until very hot. Season the aubergine slices with spices and brush them with a little olive oil.
  3. Place them on the griddle pan and grill for 2 minutes and turn them over until soft and cooked through.
  4. Place the aubergines in a bowl. Mix the lemon juice, garlic and olive oil with salt and freshly ground pepper.
  5. Drizzle over the aubergines and leave to marinate for 5-10 minutes. To serve, arrange the aubergines on a platter, scatter the crumbled feta and mint leaves.
  6. Serve with creamy walnut dressing.
Mallorcan-style stuff aubergines.

Berenjenas rellenas a la Mallorquina

Ingredients serves 4

  • 4 aubergines
  • 250g minced pork
  • 1 onion, finely chopped
  • 3 garlic cloves, crushed
  • 150ml olive oil
  • 350g tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped
  • 1tbsp tomato puree
  • 200g grated manchego cheese
  • A sprig of fresh thyme
  • 1tspn tap de corti (Paprika)
  • ¼ tsp ground Cinnamon
  • 1tbsp flour
  • 200ml white wine
  • 50g fine breadcrumbs
  • Seasoning

Method

  1. Cut the aubergines in halve lengthwise. Scoop out the pulp, leaving the shells about a centimetre thick. Brush the shells with a little olive oil and place them under a hot grill until soft.
  2. Chop the aubergine pulp and set aside. Heat the olive oil in a heavy-bottomed and fry the minced pork over a gentle flame. Add the chopped onion, crushed garlic and thyme and continue to cook for a couple of minutes. Add the tomatoes, tomato puree, chopped aubergines, paprika, cinnamon, white wine and stir in the flour. Cook over a gentle flame until all the liquid has evaporated and the mixture is dry.
  3. Arrange the aubergine shells on a baking tray and fill them with the stuffing. Top with grated manchego, fine breadcrumbs and drizzle with olive oil and a little paprika.
  4. Bake in a moderate oven for 10-15 minutes and serve immediately.
This recipe is inspired by the Caponata served at The River café in London. Awesome!

Caponata

Ingredients Serves 6

  • 2 aubergines, cut into 1.5cm cubes
  • 1 medium red onion, chopped
  • 4 celery stalks, including leaves, chopped
  • 3 plum tomatoes, diced
  • 1 garlic clove, peeled & crushed
  • 1 large red chili, finely chopped
  • 1tbsp salted capers
  • 20 black olives, stoned
  • 1tbsp red wine vinegar
  • 1tspn tomato puree
  • 2tbsp pine nuts, lightly toasted
  • 10 mint leaves
  • Salt and pepper

Method

  1. Heat a little olive oil in a large frying pan, add the aubergine cubes and fry until brown and tender (don't over crowd the pan; you will probably have to cook them in batches). Place the warm aubergines in a bowl.
  2. Blanche the celery in lightly salted water for a few minutes, then drain well and add to the aubergines.
  3. Slowly cook the onions and garlic in a little olive oil until they soften without colour. Add the chopped tomatoes, tomato puree, chillies and red wine vinegar. Stir well, then cover and cook for about 15 minutes, removing the lid of the pan towards the end of cooking to remove excess moisture.
  4. Add the aubergines and celery to the pan and stir in the capers and black olives.
  5. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Scatter with fresh mint leaves, toasted pine nuts and serve warm or at room temperature with burrata.