This week I was invited to a unique gastronomic ‘Pop Up’ experience available for three exclusive dates at Restaurant El Vicenç at the homonymous cala in the north of Mallorca. In collaboration with the prestigious Laurent Perrier and Marqués de Riscal wineries, Restaurant El Vicenç has created an exclusive 7-course tasting menu, designed by Michelin star and two Repsol Suns holder - chef Santi Taura - whose couple of other restaurants I already tried, loved and wrote about. With his passion for good quality local ingredients and his ability to combine them in innovative ways, Santi has managed to captivate the most demanding palates on the island. Last Tuesday we were promised “a culinary journey full of surprises and exquisite flavours” and I was so excited to embark on it!
Photos: Jaime Verd
We started with the essentials – pa, oli & sal, i.e. bread, oil and salt. Even those were carefully thought through and beautifully presented. The bread was made with ancient whole-wheat grain and served warm, while the olive oil was produced with a mix of Greek, Italian and Spanish olives and carried Santi’s brand name.
The first course consisted of two small plates, a tiny bowl and extended hand, in fact. One thing I loved at all Santi’s restaurants so far was his use of ceramic serving dishes. I was told that he makes them himself too. But, back to food… A mini serving of soup made with greens, Mahon cheese, walnuts and pears tasted sharp yet sweet. A mouthful of Sea nettle with spicy tuna beautifully mixed crunchy and salty sensations of sea nettle with the freshness and spiciness of tuna.
Next up, we had La granada de berenjenas, an earthy dish with an egg yolk base, aubergine and egg white foam on top. That home-made bread came in handy once again, to mop up the last bits of the egg.
The third course, Escabeche de pescado y marisco i.e. pickled fish and seafood, was made with onions and carrots, plus a mixture of red prawns, croaker and oysters with a sprinkle of “Adams” caviar for a touch of luxury. Another light and refreshing dish that I thoroughly enjoyed!
The fourth course, Hake with Algae and Tomato Chimichurri, was something that I did not expect to like, but I really did! I am not a huge fan of hake, but this one was soft and flaky, while chimichurri – typically accompanying red meat – provided a surprising but delicious twist to the dish.
The fifth course, “Sea and mountain” combination of suckling pig and lobster was a huge hit and probably my favourite dish by Santi so far! The combination of flavours and textures was just sensational! Our host, Terence, walked past to make sure that I ate the crunchy skin this time too…
We met during my meal at U Mayol on the ground floor and he jokingly “told me off” for leaving out the best bit of pork, so I knew better this time!
Our final savoury dish was Wagyu beef rib in a rich shallots and capers sauce. What an exquisite finish to a selection of plates that gently, almost imperceptibly took us from light and fresh flavours to rich and heavy ones! I loved this journey, accompanied by fantastic wines and champagne, expertly explained by lovely Joan Arboix. I need a whole other article to talk about this charming sommelier’s knowledge and passion for the wines he served us!
For now, let me just tell you about the dessert… To end this great feast Santi prepared us Coca de albaricoque, an adaptation of his grandmother’s recipe, in which he used apricots from his own garden. It was light and fluffy, fruity and just the right amount of sweet. Santi’s take on Cardenal de Lloseta is up there with my Top 5 deserts on the island, but this coca was just as good, if not better!
Many places I eat at have great customer service, but here they don’t just serve dish after dish… Each one of the people I met in Santi´s restaurants - from Urbá to U Mayol to here - seems to be genuinely passionate about what they do and about us having the best experience while in their care. I love this idea that, while enjoying some of the highest end cuisine on the island, I somehow felt as if I was amongst friends and family.
Just when I thought about how grateful I was for experiencing such a delightful menu in such a gorgeous setting, the waiter brought a final morsel of joy, a Mini bombon Mallorquin, dusted with carob, instead of cocoa… This final homage to this incredible island and its rich flavours which we are so blessed to share with the locals and visitors alike!
Location
Restaurant El Vicenç Carrer de Cala Molins, 6, 07469 Cala Sant Vicenç
mallorcacaI love the fact that you took time to count them! That's dedication... 😁 On a more serious note, I recommend you try the pop up on one of the three remaining dates and see for yourself how many exclamation marks you will use in describing it to others. 🤗
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mallorcacaI love the fact that you took time to count them! That's dedication... 😁 On a more serious note, I recommend you try the pop up on one of the three remaining dates and see for yourself how many exclamation marks you will use in describing it to others. 🤗
Wow! Ten exclamation marks in one review! That must be some kind of record!