Bar Mavi opened in the Arxiduc neighbourhood in 1955. It was run by Biel y Maria and their descendants for nearly 70 years. Although, rumour has it that the place changed hands after COVID. Either way, it is regarded as an institution by generations of locals, as well as by the occasional foreigner. It is one of those typical neighbourhood bars, with metal tables and chairs on the terrace, and a couple of TV screens inside. The waiters are correct and efficient rather than smiley and friendly. The regulars look at unfamiliar faces with suspicion, unapologetically blowing cigarette smoke all around them. But all that adds to the charm of the place…
My German friend and I ordered a couple of cañas (small beers) and I was examining the menu when she declared that the variat here was excellent. Variat basically means a little bit of everything, and it consists of spoonfuls of 5-6 Mallorcan favourite dishes. They had severe options, including the classic, from the sea, from the mountain, vegetarian etc. Steffi chose variat classic while I wanted to try the montaña (mountain), intrigued by callos (intestines) and riñones (kidneys). Steffi jokingly rolled her eyes at this brave selection, but once it came I persuaded to have a quarter of a spoon of intestines and, as far I know, she survived. Joking aside, I really enjoyed my medium sized plate full of meatballs, diced beef in a delicious tomato sauce, as well as both kidneys and intestines/tripe.
This mini meal was served with some very good crusty bread rolls and olives, which I don't eat; however, Steffi was raving about them. It was topped with a generous spoonful of ensaladilla (Russian salad) and I was so pleased that their variety did not include tuna, which is customary in Spain, but unheard of where I come from. The only thing I was not too keen on was the croquetas. I usually like them, but here they seemed to be uncharacteristically strong in flavour at “too meaty”. Steffi was delighted with her classic choice that included pica pica, sliced mushrooms, croquetas, ensaladilla and squid a la romana, of which I “stole” one ring. It tasted fresher and crispier that in some much more “upmarket” establishemnts. Next time I want to try their variat del mar, to see if it is as good as at the markets around town.
All in all, the food was delicious and even half a portion, coupled with some bread and a small beer was enough to fill up my stomach and cheer me up on a super stressful day.
VERDICT
A blend of history, excellent local cuisine, and very affordable prices has secured Bar Mavi a spot on my 'Places to Return to' list.
THE PLACE
Bar Mavi
Carrer del 31 de Desembre 29, Palma
971 29 00 05
INSTAGRAM
@bar_mavi
HOURS
Monday to Saturday 8am to midnight
Sunday closed
PRICES
Variats from 7.20 euros for ½ portion
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